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CROCHETED EASTER BASKETS

This is a simple little basket, doll sized. By changing the yarn/thread size and the hook size you can adjust the size of the basket.

Materials Needed:
Thread,
steel hook
Foam Plastic Ball
Small silk flowers (optional)
Fabric stiffener
Straight Pins
Wax Paper

To begin: Ch 6, join with a sl st in first ch.
ROW 1: Ch 4, dc in ring, make (ch 1,dc in ring) 10 times, ch 1 and join with a sl st in 3rd ch of beg ch 4. (DO NOT TURN AT BEG OF ROWS 1-12)
ROW 2: St st into next sp, ch 6, dc in next sp. *Ch 3, dc in next sp, repeat from * 9 times, ch 3, join with a sl st in 3rd ch of beg ch 6.
ROW 3: Ch 5, dc in next sp. *Ch 2, dc in next dc, ch 2, dc in next sp, rep from * 10 times, ch 2, join with a sl st in 3rd ch of beg ch 5.
ROW 4: Ch 6, sk next sp, dc in next dc. *Ch 3, sk next sp, dc in next dc, rep from * around. Skip last sp, join with a sl st in 3rd ch of beg ch 6.
ROW 5: Rep row 4
ROW 6: Ch l, sc in same st where last row was joined. *Make 3 sc in next sp, sc in next dc, rep from * around. Make 3 sc in last sp, join with a sl st in first sc.
ROW 7:Ch 5, make (dc, ch 2, cd, ch 2, dc) in st where last row was joined.*sk next 7 sc, make dc, ch 2, dc, ch 2, dc, ch 2, dc in next sc (shell make) rep from * around. Sk last 7 sc, join with a sl st in 3rd ch of beg ch 5.
ROW 8: Sl st in next sp, next dc, and next sp, ch 5, make (dc, ch 2, dc, ch 2, dc)in_dc, ch 2,dc in center sp on next shell (shell made), rep from * around, join with a sl st in 3rd ch of beg 5.
Rows 9-12:Rep row 8 Row 13 TURN St st in sp between shells, ch 5, dc in same sp. *Make a shell in middle sp of next shell, make (dc, ch 2, dc) in next sp between shells, rep from * around. Make a shell in middle sp of last shell, join with a sl st in 3rd of beg sh 5.

BASKET HANDLE
Row 1: Leave a 12" tail for sewing handle to basket later. Ch2, make (2dc, ch 2, 2 dc) in first ch. ch 1, turn.
Row 2: Make (2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc) in sh 2 sp of last row. Ch 1 turn.
ROW 3-40: Rep row 2.
End off leaving a 12" tail

STIFFENING AND BLOCKING
Dip the basket and the handle into fabric stiffener. Squeeze out any excess stiffener and shape the basket over a form that will give you the appropriate size. Block the handle separately. Cover an ironing board with wax paper. Place the basket, upside down, on top of the wax paper. Shape and pin the points of the last crochet row to the ironing board. After the basket and handle dry, remove the form form the basket and sew the handle to the inside of the basket. Place the 1/2 foam plastic ball on the bottom of the basket. Cut the flower stems to the desired height and place them into the foam.


 

A HAUNTED HOLLOWEEN WITCH (styrofoam creations) MATERIALS: STYROFOAM-(1) 2"BALL (1) 1"ball,(1) 3"ball,(1)6"egg (1)3"egg,(!)2"egg,(2)6"disks, (1)6"cone acrylic paint-light green,red and black doll hair 2 doll eyes,18mm general supplies...pencil, black marker,low temp glue gun and glue sticks or tacky glue. Tooth picks or craft picks. 1. Slice one 6" disk in half lengthwise. Glue cone to it to make witch's hat. Paint hat and other 6" DISK BLACK. 2. To make neck and head, sand 3" ball against narrow end of 6" egg for a snug fit and glue. Press sand and glue 1/2" ball on 3" egg to make wart on nose. Press,sand and glue nose to head. Glue 1" ball to bottom of head for chin. 3. Cut 3" egg in half to make ears. Slightly curve the inside of ear lobes by sanding out a spot with another piece of foam. Press,sand and glue ears to head. Paint entire head light green. 4. When dry, press, sand and glue neck to black disk. Glue on eyes, hair and hat. Draw nostrils and mouth with marker. ***************** HELPFUL HINTS ******************** CUTTING...., Cut away small sections or slices of foam at a time. This will prevent you from c utting too much off foam piece. Cut foam pieces with a serrated knife or a small saw. Wax a blade with a piece of wax or a candle stub for smoother, easier cuts. Always keep the knife perpendicular to the table and cut down with a back and forth "sawing" motion. Trying to maintain as even as possible. Don't worry if your cuts are not exact. Fitting foam pieces together can be "fine-tuned" by pressing and sanding. PRESSING..., foam pieces can be pressed, one piece against another firmly, to create a flat spot. The pieces can then be sanded together to remove additional foam, or to create a smooth fit. SANDING....., Sanding smooths the cut edges and surfaces of pieces. This is done by rubbing two pieces of foam together. Whenever possible, rub the cut edges or sides of pieces that will help join together. This will help achieve a smooth fit. Edges can also be rounded using this method.




JACK-O-LANTERN (styrofoam creations) MATERIALS; STYROFOAM-(1) 6" BALL (1) 2 1/2" EGG ARCRYLIC PAINT-ORANGE,YELLOW, BROWN AND BLACK CHENILLE STEM GENERAL SUPPLIES..A serrated knife or small saw, tacky glue or low tempered glue gun with glue sticks, craft picks or toothpicks, pencil and black marker DIRECTIONS: 1. Saw 1/2" from ball for bottom of jack-o-lantern. Draw 8 lines around ball. Using a knife, indent foam 1/4" at line markings. This works best if you start at 1/4" on either side of line and cut at an angle. Sand grooves slightly to round edges. 2.To make the pumpkin"glow" first paint yellow. When dry, paint the grooves orange. 3. To cut off top of pumpkin and achieve a natural look, saw at an angle toward the center of the ball. 4. To make stem, roll long end of 2 1/2" egg on hard surface until flattened all around. Paint it brown and glue to pumpkin lid. 5. Carve jack-o-lantern face, cutting at angle toward inside of pumpkin. Use chenille stem as a paint brush to paint inside of cut-outs and lid. ********** HELPFUL HINTS ********* CUTTING..., Cut away small sections or slices of foam at a time. This will prevent you from cutting too much off a foam piece. Cut foam pieces with a serrated knife or a small saw. Wax the blade with a piece of wax or candle stub for smoother, easier cuts. Always keep knife perpendicular to the table and cut down with a back-n-forth "sawing" motion. Try to maintain as even cut as possible. Don't worry if your cuts are not exact. Fitting foam pieces together can be "fine-tuned" by pressing and sanding. PRESSING..., Foam pieces can be pressed, one piece against another firmly, to create a flat spot. The pieces can be sanded together to remove additional foam, or to create a smooth fit. SANDING...., Sanding smooths the cut edges and surfaces of pieces. This is done by rubbing two pieces of foam together. Whenever possible, rub the cut edges or sides of pieces that will be joined together. This will help achieve a smooth fit. Edges can also be rounded using this method. Snowman Ornament Supplies: 1 Sport yarn: white, red green and grey 1 size d crochet hook 1 cotton stuffing 1 felt scraps: black, orange 1 black embroidery thread gauge: 7sc=1" head and body begin at top of head with white, ch2 rnd 1:6sc in 2nd ch rnd 2:2sc in each sc rnd 3:(sc in next sc, 2sc in next sc) rep 6 times = 18sc rnd 4:((sc in each of next 2sc, 2sc in next sc) rep 6 times=24sc rnd 5-8: work even for 4 rnds rnd 9:(sc in each of next 2sc, work next 2sc tog.) rep 6 times=18sc rnd 10:(sc in next sc, work next 2sc tog.) rep 6 times=12sc rnd 11 work even rnd 12 and 13: rep 3 and 4=24sc rnd 14-19: work even for 6 rnds rnd 20 rep 9 rnd 21: work even, end off leg (make 2) ch7 rnd 1:sc in 2nd sc from hook, sc in next 4ch, 5sc in end ch. sc in next 4ch on opposite side, 2sc in last sc rnd 2 and 3: work even 16 sc rnd 4:sc in each of 6sc (work next 2ssc tog) twice sc in each of 6sc. rnd 5-9: work even 5 rnds - 14sc, end off arm (make 2) ch2, rnd 1: By: Diki Shamlian Gust Ukranian Easter Eggs (Pysanky) Most of the top Pysanky artists around the country will use a lathe to divide the eggs. It becomes quite obvious when you see a lot of them which do and which don't. A step up from rubber bands for drawing lines is the clear vinyl plastic sold for slipcover (?) purposes. 10 or 12 mil. It makes it very easy to draw parallel lines and can be cut in increments of 32's of an inch. "Safety nets" are excellent ideas, especially if you have cats in the house. I still can't figure out how mine managed to get one down to the floor, 36" below without even a crack. (That was the second one, the first one just went "PLOP". That's when I went from a Rubbermaid lid to a cake pan.) Dedicated 1.3 pt Rubbermaid bowls make excellent holders for the dyes. They seal and the egg is cushioned slightly in case it leaves the spoon a "wee" bit too fast. Keep in mind geese only lay in the spring, if you intend to stock up, do it then. Duck eggs seem *very* oily, but have a wonderful translucence to them. When you've done enough eggs, I can't even begin to make an estimate but I think I'm well into 4 digits since 1991, you get used to "accidents". What hurts the most isn't when 8-12 hours goes down the tubes, but when a particular shape that can't be duplicated, i.e., eggs-ceptionally rounded, or teardrop shaped... Stick with pure beeswax. It hardens immediately... not oily... and not brittle. If you've made a mistake, scrape the wax off with a fingernail and then scribble the area with a pencil. This will remove most of the residual wax. Then if you rub the area with a finger, the graphite will stick to whatever wax remains, making it easy to see. I work with clear wax, but will rub the egg with graphite powder. It clings to the wax, doesn't clog the kistki tips, and makes it possible to see where wax has been applied. Right down to the "oopses". An egg is calcium carbonate, vinegar acetic acid. The vinegar eats at the shell, those bubbles you see rising are carbon dioxide, and calcium acetate falls off. Putting the egg into a strong vinegar solution creates a skin of calcium acetate on the egg that can be rubbed off, but when left in place, will harden when dry and absorbs the dye better. For a new twist on an old theme, an egg can be put in straight vinegar and etched, leaving a raised design in the shell. Brown eggs are great for this. As you continue to etch through the shell, the colors get lighter and lighter till what remains as background is white. 4 new colors have been introduced, so far I have only used the new red but it's stability is about on a par with the pink. I suggest using care with it. FolkArt makes an excellent spray coating, "concentrated" with the pink label. An egg doesn't need two holes to be drained. And yes, according to legend, the fate of the world does depend on pysanky. It's charming and a good excuse to enjoy decorating eggs. 8-) ) _ By: Diki Shamlian Gust Ukranian Easter Eggs (Pysanky) Most of the top Pysanky artists around the country will use a lathe to divide the eggs. It becomes quite obvious when you see a lot of them which do and which don't. A step up from rubber bands for drawing lines is the clear vinyl plastic sold for slipcover (?) purposes. 10 or 12 mil. It makes it very easy to draw parallel lines and can be cut in increments of 32's of an inch. "Safety nets" are excellent ideas, especially if you have cats in the house. I still can't figure out how mine managed to get one down to the floor, 36" below without even a crack. (That was the second one, the first one just went "PLOP". That's when I went from a Rubbermaid lid to a cake pan.) Dedicated 1.3 pt Rubbermaid bowls make excellent holders for the dyes. They seal and the egg is cushioned slightly in case it leaves the spoon a "wee" bit too fast. Keep in mind geese only lay in the spring, if you intend to stock up, do it then. Duck eggs seem *very* oily, but have a wonderful translucence to them. When you've done enough eggs, I can't even begin to make an estimate but I think I'm well into 4 digits since 1991, you get used to "accidents". What hurts the most isn't when 8-12 hours goes down the tubes, but when a particular shape that can't be duplicated, i.e., eggs-ceptionally rounded, or teardro p shaped... Stick with pure beeswax. It hardens immediately... not oily... and not brittle. If you've made a mistake, scrape the wax off with a fingernail and then scribble the area with a pencil. This will remove most of the residual wax. Then if you rub the area with a finger, the graphite will stick to whatever wax remains, making it easy to see. I work with clear wax, but will rub the egg with graphite powder. It clings to the wax, doesn't clog the kistki tips, and makes it possible to see where wax has been applied. Right down to the "oopses". An egg is calcium carbonate, vinegar acetic acid. The vinegar eats at the shell, those bubbles you see rising are carbon dioxide, and calcium acetate falls off. Putting the egg into a strong vinegar solution creates a skin of calcium acetate on the egg that can be rubbed off, but when left in place, will harden when dry and absorbs the dye better. For a new twist on an old theme, an egg can be put in straight vinegar and etched, leaving a raised design in the shell. Brown eggs are great for this. As you continue to etch through the shell, the colors get lighter and lighter till what remains as background is white. 4 new colors have been introduced, so far I have only used the new red but it's stability is about on a par with the pink. I suggest using care with it. FolkArt makes an excellent spray coating, "concentrated" with the pink label. An egg doesn't need two holes to be drained. And yes, according to legend, the fate of the world does depend on pysanky. It's charming and a good excuse to enjoy decorating eggs. 8-) ) _
 

 CELEBRATORY BALLOON WREATH This is a fun wreath to make for birthdays, New Year's Eve, et cetera. It can easily be personalized, modified, and reused for different occasions. MATERIALS NEEDED: 1 (11-inch diameter) straw wreath Floral wire Hanger (such as curtain hook) Wire cutters Approximately 275 balloons, in assorted colors ("flat", not inflated) Party favor plastic sign signifying the occasion (e. g., "Happy Birthday" or "Happy New Year" Party Favor horn Party Favor 3-inch diameter cluster of 1-inch balloons Assorted party favors for the occasion (optional) 3 yards 1/4-inch wide red curling ribbon 3 yards 1/4-inch wide yellow curling ribbon 3 yards 1/4-inch wide blue curling ribbon Scissors Glue gun and/or approximately 300 floral U picks 1 1/2-inch wide red satin ribbon, tied into large, full bow with long streamers PROCEDURE: -- If the straw wreath is encased in plastic wrap, remove the plastic. -- Use a piece of wire to wrap a hook (such as a curtain hook) through the top of the straw wreath to serve as a hanger. Note that that will be the rear top (i. e., to avoid placing a Happy Birthday sign upside down). -- Using glue gun or floral picks, attach balloons to the wreath, either placing a dab of glue in the center and placing glued-side-down on the wreath, or by placing the balloon on the wreath and pressing a floral U pin around the center area, thereby holding the balloon in place. . Alternate both colors and directions, so that some face upward, some downward, some to the left, and some to the right. . Continue overlapping the balloons in this manner until the entire top, sides, and center ring of the straw wreath are entirely covered by balloons. -- Cut each piece of curling ribbon into 3 (24-inch) pieces and 4 (8-inch) pieces. -- Tie 1 (24-inch) length of red curling ribbon, 1 (24-inch) length of yellow curling ribbon, and 1 (24-inch) length of blue curling ribbon around the party favor sign. Use the blade of the scissors to curl the ribbon. -- Tie 1 (24-inch) length of red curling ribbon, 1 (24-inch) length of yellow curling ribbon, and 1 (24-inch) length of blue curling ribbon around the party favor horn. Use the blade of the scissors to curl the ribbon. -- Tie 1 (24-inch) length of red curling ribbon, 1 (24-inch) length of yellow curling ribbon, and 1 (24-inch) length of blue curling ribbon around the party favor balloons. Use the blade of the scissors to curl the ribbon. -- Using floral wire, attach the sign, ballons, and horn to the wreath in an arrangement you find pleasing. (Make sure that they are placed in a spot that will not become hidden when the bow is added.) -- Use blade of scissors to curl the 8-inch ribbon lengths and press or glue them onto the wreath, alternating colors and areas. -- If desired, use embossing pen or fabric paint to personalize the ribbon (e. g., with the honoree's name on one side and birthday on the other). -- Using wire, attach bow to center top of wreath. _
 

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